Once upon a time, a man named Leonard C Knight appeared in Niland, California, on a mission to spread his message: “God is Love.” He wanted to do it from the seat of a hot air balloon. Instead, the desert called to him, and his resilience allowed him to embrace the building of the folk art monument, Salvation Mountain.
The unusual project could have easily been dismissed and swallowed by the desert, like so much has been. Instead, after decades of work, Salvation Mountain is one of the most famous landmarks in the California desert, and it has long been a destination I wanted to see. This year, we finally made it happen.
How the Monument Began
It started as a small monument honoring Knight’s message and his hot air balloon. But when it was finished, the desire for something bigger grew. Leonard C Knight didn’t call in the bulldozers and teams of builders. Instead, this artist philosopher was “armed with only a bucket, a shovel, and a half a bag of cement,” according to the official site. Then, he got to work.
Can you imagine that? Can you imagine the drive and passion it takes to transform sand, cement, and collected junk into something that reaches tens of thousands of people every year? The idea survived the collapse of the first 50-foot mountain, which had too much sand to hold the weight. He simply began again with the wisdom of how to do it better.
The second mountain survived California’s attempt to demolish it with claims of lead toxicity. However, an independent test revealed that the monument, composed of adobe, clay, sand, cement, and paint (and determination), posed no significant threat.
The Second Salvation Mountain Lives
Leonard Knight lived in his truck at the site, but in 1998, the 115+ days during the summer months inspired him to create The Hogan (a room made of adobe and straw to help protect him and visitors from the extreme heat). Today, the room is temporarily blocked for restoration, but you can still see Leonard’s style and message shining through the desert sun.
Leonard died in 2014. He had been moved into a care facility, but he was able to visit his creation with KPBS (TV) one final time in 2013. Salvation Mountain, Inc. is a public charity that continues to run the site. It requires constant repair, but the love of the artisans and volunteers who work to extend and preserve the site is impressive.
It also helps that it has received such incredible support from visitor donations and praise from organizations like The Folk Art Society of America. Even Senator Barbara Boxer told Congress of this wonder in the desert:
American folk art is found in all corners of our nation. Perhaps one
of the least likely locations would be the desert where Salvation
Mountain is found. Leonard Knight’s artwork is a national treasure, a
singular sculpture wrought from the desert by a modest, single-minded
man. It is a sculpture for the ages–profoundly strange and beautifully
accessible, and worthy of the international acclaim it
receives.
Our Experience
It’s hard not to be moved by Leonard Knight’s dedication. This nearly 3-story monument rises out of the sand and into a dazzling blue desert sky. It’s impossible not to marvel at it; you want to take a moment and just breathe it in.
Even when the site is busy, there is an awe that quiets chatter. It’s a joyful experience, but there is silence. The quiet comes not just because the desert captures and hushes sound, but because there is a profound connection to this art that you want to feel.
We didn’t talk about our day, our next destination, or how long it would take to get home. We ignored the news of the day and temporarily put doctors’ appointments and work commitments out of our heads. We simply wanted to explore, to be a part of it.
Where You Can See More About Salvation Mountain
Salvation Mountain, Inc. released a video featuring Leonard C. Knight, made after 22 years of work on the site. He was inspired to make the video out of a desire to let people in nursing homes and others who could not travel see the mountain. It was another act of kindness and artistic generosity in a life filled with them.
For more on our travel experiences, visit us here.